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79 images Created 4 May 2013

Sustainable cocoa farming in Mexico

The world's first cocoa crops originated in the region of Soconusco, some four thousand years ago, where they were grown in a natural Paradise of amazing biodiversity in what is now the Mexican state of Chiapas. Cocoa, like corn, structured the economic, social and cultural life of the Mesoamerican civilisations. Mayans and Aztecs associated xocolatl (bitter water, the origin of the word chocolate) with the life-giving fluid that is blood and the corn cob with the heart.

Chocolate made from Creole cocoa from Soconusco, a "rarity" of nature due to its scarcity, yet a feast for the senses, was a drink that was reserved for the elite of Mayan and Aztec society and the tradition was continued by the European Royalty that coined the term "Cacao Real" or "Royal Cocoa" to refer to this exclusive product. The Mayan farmers of the Soconusco region, like their ancestors, continue to grow cocoa in humid, tropical forests. This type of forest management is diverse, sustainable and free of agro-chemicals, yet is under serious threat from deforestation and the expansion of monoculture crops that are annihilating the forests and cocoa cultivation, thus forcing local farmers into poverty and emigration.

Since 2004, the Centro de Agroecología San Francisco de Asís (CASFA) centre for agroecology, has been running the "Rescuing Royal Cocoa" programme in the Soconusco region, with the aim of preserving the nutritional and environmental benefits of this mythical crop and providing its producers with food and economic independence.
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  • Saving Mexican criollo cocoa (Royal Cocoa of Soconusco).<br />
<br />
Cocoa pulp has a very pleasant fragrance of blossoms and is edible. Once it has been fermented it is also used to make a sort of “cocoa beer”.  This is possibly the first use that was made of cocoa before the Mayas and the Olmecs started to process the beans. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_001.jpg
  • Saving Mexican criollo cocoa (Royal Cocoa of Soconusco).<br />
<br />
Francisco Sarabia community. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_002.jpg
  • Saving Mexican criollo cocoa (Royal Cocoa of Soconusco).<br />
<br />
Tuzantán, Mexico. Path to the cocoa plantation in Sierra Madre de Chiapas.
    mexico_cocoa_003.jpg
  • Saving Mexican criollo cocoa (Royal Cocoa of Soconusco).<br />
<br />
Demetria Gutiérrez has been growing cocoa for more than fifty years. Her land is surrounded by banana trees; the majority of her neighbours have sold up and left the community. Doña Demetria, who has always refused to sell her cocoa plantation to the banana companies, is also known in her community as “The Resistant”. Tapachula, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_004.jpg
  • Saving Mexican criollo cocoa (Royal Cocoa of Soconusco).<br />
<br />
Villa Comaltitlán, Mexico. Don Fila is 80 years old. Most of the cocoa farmers of Soconusco are elderly.  Unfortunately there is no sign that the younger generation wish to ensure the survival of the crop.
    mexico_cocoa_005.jpg
  • Saving Mexican criollo cocoa (Royal Cocoa of Soconusco).<br />
<br />
The genetic recovery of the Soconusco Royal Cocoa is one of the aims of the San Francisco of Asis Agro-ecology Centre (CASFA). They produce, select and preserve the criollo cocoa seeds. Tapachula. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_006.jpg
  • Saving Mexican criollo cocoa (Royal Cocoa of Soconusco).<br />
<br />
Cacao flower.
    mexico_cocoa_007.jpg
  • Saving Mexican criollo cocoa (Royal Cocoa of Soconusco).<br />
<br />
The genetic recovery of the Soconusco Royal Cocoa is one of the aims of the San Francisco of Asis Agro-ecology Centre (CASFA). A white cocoa been is indicative of criollo cocoa of the highest quality.
    mexico_cocoa_008.jpg
  • Saving Mexican criollo cocoa (Royal Cocoa of Soconusco).<br />
<br />
There are three main varieties of Theobroma cacao: criollo, forastero and trinitario. Of all of these, criollo is the most difficult to grow; it is extremely fussy, produces fewer pods containing fewer beans and is more susceptible to diseases and pests. Nonetheless, it is considered to be the best quality for its fine taste and flavour, it is also scarce; only 5% of world cocoa production is made up of this variety.
    mexico_cocoa_009.jpg
  • Saving Mexican criollo cocoa (Royal Cocoa of Soconusco).<br />
<br />
A variety of the mythical Royal Cocoa of Soconusco: lagarto cocoa.
    mexico_cocoa_010.jpg
  • A variety of the mythical Royal Cocoa of Soconusco: cundeamor cocoa.
    mexico_cocoa_011.jpg
  • Mexico is one of five countries on Earth that has the greatest biodiversity with 10% of the total world fauna and flora. But 90% of its territory is deforested.  Even more serious is the disappearance in Chiapas of 97% of the tropical rain forests where criollo cocoa beans are grown.
    mexico_cocoa_012.jpg
  • Juan Sánchez carrying a pole about five metres long that he will use for harvesting the highest cocoa pods. Francisco Sarabia Cooperative. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_013.jpg
  • The cocoa is notoriously difficult to cultivate. It needs a great deal of water, constant humidity and must be surrounded by vegetation that protects it from direct sunlight to reduce evaporation. The soil must be well drained and contain plenty of nutrients.
    mexico_cocoa_014.jpg
  • The cocoa is notoriously difficult to cultivate, it refuses to bear fruit outside the narrow strip lying between latitudes 20 degrees north and south of the equator. And in this tropical region it will only grow at altitudes where the temperature does not go below 16°C.
    mexico_cocoa_015.jpg
  • The fruit bearing life of a cocoa tree varies between 20 and 30 years. Manuel García planted these trees some 50 years ago, but is reluctant to replace them whilst they are still bearing fruit. Mazatán,  Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_016.jpg
  • The machete used to harvest the cocoa pods must be extremely sharp and disinfected in order not to damage the buds.
    mexico_cocoa_017.jpg
  • mexico_cocoa_018.jpg
  • The way that cocoa is cultivated in Soconusco is one of the most highly developed forms of agriculture in the world. There are no cocoa plantations here, but forests where cocoa is grown surrounded by other plants that are useful to mankind. This is a bio-diversified product. More than 100 different species including trees for timber, fruit and medicinal trees have been identified.
    mexico_cocoa_019.jpg
  • mexico_cocoa_031.jpg
  • Demetria Gutiérrez and her son David harvesting cocoa pods in their 10 hectare plantation. Álvaro Obregón cooperative. Tapachula, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_022.jpg
  • Demetria Gutiérrez and her son David harvesting cocoa pods in their 10 hectare plantation. Álvaro Obregón cooperative. Tapachula, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_020.jpg
  • Doña Demetria carefully places her rod against the stem of the fruit and with a swift cutting movement separates the pod from the trunk. Tapachula. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_023.jpg
  • mexico_cocoa_081.jpg
  • Francisco Sarabia community. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_024.jpg
  • Lázaro López’s first harvest since he bought his cocoa plantation with the money sent by his children who live in the United States.  Buena Vista community, Mexico
    mexico_cocoa_026.jpg
  • Francisco Sarabia community. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_025.jpg
  • The heat is oppressive, the temperature reaches around 35°C with 85% relative humidity; these are the typical weather conditions that reign in the region of Soconusco in the State of Chiapas, where cocoa was first grown
    mexico_cocoa_027.jpg
  • mexico_cocoa_030.jpg
  • Raul Hernandez drinking water with the aid of a sheet of cocoa. Francisco Sarabia comm,,,unity
    mexico_cocoa_029.jpg
  • mexico_cocoa_028.jpg
  • Infection by Monilia. This fungus rots the cocoa pod and was responsible for a loss of 60% of the cocoa production in 2007, 2008 and 2011. Tapachula. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_032.jpg
  • Raúl Hernández’s plantation is situated on the steep slopes of the Sierra Madre in Chiapas and can only be reached by a footpath. Raúl has to carry the cocoa pods on his back during the forty minute walk down to his community. Tuzantán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_033.jpg
  • Harvest has lasted for a whole week and Manuel Garcia has been stacking up the cocoa pods in different parts of the plantation.  Mazatán. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_035.jpg
  • Cocoa is frequently stolen during harvest time when market prices are high, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_036.jpg
  • mexico_cocoa_037.jpg
  • Kindling for cooking can also be extracted from the plantation. Hipólito Hernández, 73 years old, carries a bundle weighing some 40 kilos. Tuzantán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_038.jpg
  • Víctor Velázquez is 14 years old and left school when he was 11 in order to go and work in his uncle Lázaro’s cocoa plantation. In 2005 his parents emigrated to North Carolina in the United States, after hurricane Stan swept through Chiapas. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_039.jpg
  • The cocoa grown by the farmers who belong to the Maya Network of Organic Organisations is free from agro-chemicals. Mazatán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_040.jpg
  • The cocoa grown by the farmers who belong to the Maya Network of Organic Organisations is free from agro-chemicals. Mazatán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_041.jpg
  • Underneath the shade of a tree the farmers starts the quiebra, the process of cutting open the pods to extract the cocoa beans. The pods contain up to 40 beans of the size of an almond. The cocoa grown by the farmers who belong to the Maya Network of Organic Organisations is free from agro-chemicals. Mazatán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_042.jpg
  • Once the cocoa beans have been extracted from the pod, they are placed in a wooden box to ferment for three days. The development of the flavours and aromas depend upon this process for making the finest chocolate. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_043.jpg
  • Once the cocoa beans have been extracted from the pod, they are placed in a wooden box to ferment for three days. The development of the flavours and aromas depend upon this process for making the finest chocolate. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_044.jpg
  • Once the cocoa beans have been extracted from the pod, they are placed in a wooden box to ferment for three days. The development of the flavours and aromas depend upon this process for making the finest chocolate. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_045.jpg
  • Once the cocoa beans have been extracted from the pod, they are placed in a wooden box to ferment for three days. The development of the flavours and aromas depend upon this process for making the finest chocolate. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_046.jpg
  • The cocoa beans are laid on what are called drying floors for a period of three to five days during which they are regularly raked over in order to accelerate the drying process. Mazatán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_047.jpg
  • The object of the drying process is to de-activate the enzymes and reduce the moisture in the beans to an optimal 7-8%.  This is necessary for handling and storage as if the beans are too dry they become brittle and if too moist they can become mouldy.  Francisco Sarabia community. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_048.jpg
  • The cocoa beans are laid on what are called drying floors for a period of three to five days during which they are regularly raked over in order to accelerate the drying process. Mazatán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_049.jpg
  • At the San Francisco of Asis Agro-ecology Centre (SFAAC), Manuel García sells a sack of cocoa beans, weighing some 50 kilos, which is destined to be exported to Europe. Mazatán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_050.jpg
  • At the San Francisco of Asis Agro-ecology Centre (CASFA), Manuel García sells a sack of cocoa beans, weighing some 50 kilos, which is destined to be exported to Europe. Mazatán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_051.jpg
  • The Francisco Sarabia Community, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_052.jpg
  • Cocoa farmers from Villa Comaltitlán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_053.jpg
  • Huehuetán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_054.jpg
  • Raúl Hernández playing with his niece, Noemí, at breakfast time. Tuzantán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_055.jpg
  • Filadelfio Martínez is paid a monthly pension of 500 pesos (approximately 35 Euros). He is very ill but has to continue farming cocoa in order to pay for his medicines.  Villa Comaltitlán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_056.jpg
  • Breakfast in Doña Demetria's ranch. Tapachula. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_057.jpg
  • The Soconusco farmers roast cocoa beans on clay griddles for family consumption. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_058.jpg
  • The Soconusco farmers roast cocoa beans on clay griddles for family consumption. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_059.jpg
  • The roasted beans are winnowed and sorted before being used to make chocolate. Tapachula, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_060.jpg
  • Domestically ground cocoa beans. Tuzantán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_061.jpg
  • Making home-made chocolate. Tapachula, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_062.jpg
  • Making home-made chocolate. Tapachula, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_063.jpg
  • Making home-made chocolate. Tuzantán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_064.jpg
  • Making home-made chocolate. Tuzantán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_065.jpg
  • The rainy season in the Sierra Madre in Chiapas. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_066.jpg
  • Francisco Sarabia community. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_067.jpg
  • The medicine-man uses cocoa (beans, roots and leaves) to make up one of his potions. Huixtla, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_068.jpg
  • Burning a cocoa plantation in order to grow African palm oil. Villa Comaltitlán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_069.jpg
  • In Chiapas in 1993, 30,000 hectares of land were used to grow cocoa beans; twenty years later this surface has been reduced by 40%. The heavily subsidized programs the Mexican government is offering to plant palm oil and sugar cane strongly encourage conversion to the production of crops that are more profitable than cocoa beans.
    mexico_cocoa_070.jpg
  • Pesticide use after burning a cocoa plantation in order to grow African palm oil. Villa Comaltitlán, Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_071.jpg
  • African palm oil plantations are on the increase in Chiapas. In 1993 they accounted for 2,500 hectares, in 2013 more than 60,000, whilst potential planting could reach more than 900,000 hectares of palm oil for the whole state.
    mexico_cocoa_072.jpg
  • Intensive cultivation of sugar cane. Huehuetán, Mexico.
    mexico_sugarcane_073.jpg
  • Intensive cultivation of sugar cane. Huehuetán, Mexico.
    mexico_sugarcane_074.jpg
  • Intensive cultivation of sugar cane. Huehuetán, Mexico.
    mexico_sugarcane_075.jpg
  • Demetria Gutiérrez has been growing cocoa for more than fifty years. Doña Demetria, who has always refused to sell her cocoa plantation to the banana companies, is also known in her community as “The Resistant”. Tapachula, Mexico.
    mexico_banana_076.jpg
  • Mayas mam. Pavencúl, Mexico.
    mexico_mayas_077.jpg
  • Francisco Sarabia cementery. Mexico.
    mexico_cocoa_078.jpg
  • All Saints Day. Francisco Sarabia. Mexico.
    mexico_cemetery_079.jpg
  • Over the next 10 years, the San Francisco of Asis Agro-ecology Centre (CASFA) hopes to recuperate at least 10,000 hectares currently devoted to rearing livestock and intensive farming in order to plant cocoa.
    mexico_cocoa_080.jpg